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16 contributions to 3D Printing Community
Flow rate and K factor
I’m using the P1P with no AMS. I started experiencing print quality issues. I calibrated it. Worked fine again. Then I think when we changed the spool, we started having issues again. Does anyone know if the k value gets reset after a filament swap? I’m going crazy over this. I can’t figure out how to get back to the quality I had on day 1. Only had the thing 2 months.
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New comment 10d ago
Flow rate and K factor
0 likes • 10d
@Brandon Santana it’s only a guess right now because I can’t get a good print now. I had 3 failed attempts yesterday. Ran another one last night. I’ll find out this morning when I get to the office if it worked.
What have you printed recently? 👀
Last week, we had designed and printed some new Flexis and designs for our shop. Drop down your recent prints below 👇
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New comment 3d ago
What have you printed recently? 👀
1 like • 10d
Upgraded the profile on our sliding lid box. And added rubber feet and a magnetic lid.
0 likes • 10d
@Brandon Santana yes! It launches in 2 weeks
Top layer issues
Anyone ever seen anything like this? I think what’s happening is that the shield shape is part of the top layer and instead of printing from edge to edge, it’s printing to the shield. That dark line on the bottom middle of this lid is actually slightly raised. Printing pla basic on a brand new p1p. The first several prints were flawless. Using the same slicer file also. The Red is a screenshot of the slicer. Why can't it start printing the shield on TOP of the top layer instead of as part of the top layer? The gray image is from Fusion 360. It was a PNG that I imported and converted to a shape and then extruded.
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New comment 24d ago
Top layer issues
1 like • 29d
I think I figured it out. The Shield is it's own body in Fusion 360. Is there a way to "flatten" that in Bambu Slicer so it's treated as 1 body instead of 2?
0 likes • 26d
@Elizabeth Able My goal is to have a top layer that looks nice. The bottom left corner looks bad because it gets printed last and in the opposite direction as the rest. Here's what I tried recently. I split the top .1 mm into 4 quadrants and gave each a different direction. Blue is just my test color. Finished product will be black.
A1mini print quality
I just love my new A1-mini. It prints just as nice as my X1C. I would recommends it if someone is looking of a small printer. This is an A1-mini riser I’ve designed and then printed on the A1-mini. I love the print quality.
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New comment 27d ago
A1mini print quality
0 likes • Aug 21
have you had any issues with bed adhesion? I have to use glue with mine everytime. Got a P1P a few weeks ago and bed adhesion is way better. Wondering if it's just an issue with default settings regarding bed temperature though. I always print with PLA basic.
0 likes • Aug 21
Also, love the setup. Did you design that or find a 3D model for it? If it's online, would love a link if you can remember where you found it.
Snap Fits - Classroom Questions
I didn't notice a way to post comments/questions to the classroom content so I'm doing that here. I watched the first snap fit video. Thank you for putting that together. I have one main question. Is the first Snap Fit use case for a permanent connection or is that supposed to be able to open and close at will? It seems like closing it would work fine, but with a 90 degree connection the other way, seems like I wouldn't be able to remove the lid once it was attached. Let me know if I'm missing something.
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New comment Jun 24
1 like • Jun 24
@Brandon Santana primarily the first 2
1 like • Jun 24
@Brandon Santana ooohhh!!! I didn't even think about that. OK, now it makes perfect sense. Thanks!!
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Jonathan Conrad
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40points to level up
@jonathan-conrad-7086
I am the founder of The Catholic Woodworker where me make rosaries and crucifixes. I'm interested in adding 3D printed products to our catalog

Active 2d ago
Joined May 16, 2024
Westfield, IN
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